Return to the Cinque Terre

Wednesday Oct-2, 2013 

When Michael came to visit us in June, a trip to the Cinque Terre (the five coastal towns on the Italian Riviera) was right at the top of his list.  We spent 2 nights there, hiking the historic fishing towns, swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, and eating in the great restaurants.  And, we resolved that when the last of our guests had returned home to the States (and the weather got a bit cooler) we would return.  

We left early Wednesday for the 3 hour drive into Manarola, the second of the five towns.  It was the same town we stayed in last time, partly due to limited hotel availability – the tourist season is still in full swing, with many American and French retirees on holiday.  Even though we arrived early, the friendly staff at the Hotel Da Baranin had our studio apartment ready and we checked in to an awesome view right out our window.

We immediately walked just a couple of minutes down to Trail 6P for our first hike.  Down at the harbor, the entry gate for the Coastal Walk to Corniglia is still locked shut, however, by taking Trail 6P from the upper part of town, and making the climb part way up the mountain,  it turned and dropped us right down on the Coastal Walk and straight onto Corniglia from there.  

The reconstruction crews have done an outstanding job rebuilding the Coastal Walk trail between Manarola and Corniglia, using sturdy new suspension bridges to get us over the chasms and washouts from the horrific mudslides of two years ago.  It was an easy trek onto the foot of Corniglia; I say foot because the trail deposits you at the bottom of a winding staircase of 350+ steps straight up to the town, which is perched on a large rocky outcropping high above sea.  The train station is also located at the foot of the town, and I don’t envy anyone getting off the train and hauling their suitcases up that staircase to check into their hotel!

We walked up for a visit around Corniglia, pausing to buy a collection of watercolors of the five towns painted by a local artist who set up her little “shop” right on one of the landings on the  staircase.  We then went back down to the train station to catch a ride back to Manarola.

Once back in town I could not resist the allure of the Mediterranean Sea, so I changed into trunks, grabbed a beach towel, and went down for a swim in the mighty Med.  The afternoon was quite sunny and the water surprisingly warm for October, so there was  a pretty good crowd swimming, sunning, and clambering over the huge rock outcroppings that comprise the Manarola harbor area.  

Later that evening Angie and I had dinner at the local Trattoria La Scogliera. We started with a cheese sampler and a giant plate of mussels.  Both were very good, but it was the Secondi Piatti that was the big hit – grilled sea bass.  Served whole and “non-spooned”, meaning heads and skins on, they required a bit of picking to watch for bones but were fresh and delicious.

Thursday Oct-3, 2013  After fixing breakfast in our studio we checked out, hauled our luggage up to the car, then walked the short distance to Trail 6.  We had hiked Trail 6 in June with Mike; the accent is steep and challenging, and in many places the high mountain trail is little more than a narrow goat path – it is no place for the inexperienced or out of shape, but the glorious views over the mountains and sea are worth every step.

We made the tricky decent down into Corniglia for lunch before catching the train back to Manarola.  Once at the car we headed for home.

Our return to the Cinque Terre was so rewarding; the mountains and sea are magnificent, the hiking outstanding, and the culture and charm of the seaside towns is spiritually uplifting.  It is a place that resonates with both Angie and I, and without a doubt is one of our favorite places in Italy. 

The Cinque Terre

On Sunday June 23, Michael, Angie and I drove two hours up to northwestern Italy to the city of La Spezia, where we parked the car and caught the train to the Cinque Terre.  The Cinque Terre (CHINK-wah TEAR-a), literally translated as the “Five Lands”, is a series of 5 walk-about villages  clinging to a remote stretch of mountainous Mediterranean Riviera coastline – yes, the Riviera coastline.  This lesser known region of Italian Riviera is adjacent to and crosses into the more famous French Riviera, in a part of the Mediterranean known as the Ligurian Sea. 

Going to the Cinque Terre is a beautiful, rugged, seaside excursion, and the region is a true Mecca for experienced hikers.  It was one of Mike’s “must do” things during his visit with us, as well as for Angie and I since we had never been there.  The five towns (from south to north) are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso.  We elected for a two night stay in a studio apartment in Manarola, which proved to be a truly charming seaside fishing village.

Manarola was perfect for us - not only did it offer challenging hiking opportunities to Corniglia and beyond, it had good access to the sea despite its rocky coastline.  

 After our room check in we spent the afternoon exploring around town, getting a bite to eat, and hiking up the limited open portion of the coastal route for a different perspective on the town.

The next morning it was Boatmix for breakfast and then we were out the door heading to the top of town where we picked up the trailhead for trail 6. 

 Because of the horrific mudslides of 2011 there are still a few hiking trails closed, most notably the easy Via Dell'Amore ("Love Walk") between Riomaggiore and Manarola, and all but the first few hundred meters of the #2 coastal trail from Manarola to Corniglia.  Nevertheless, the #6-6d-7 trail complex that goes from Manarola up into the mountains and then down to Corniglia is open, and its vistas down to Corniglia, and back upon Manarola, are staggeringly beautiful. 

#6 is a moderate to difficult route for experience hikers – because the trail is scarcely a foot wide at times with steep drop offs, good hiking boots are required and trekking poles are helpful.  After two hours of serious hiking we started coming down into the town of Corniglia.

The three of us paused for a caffe americano in Corniglia, after which Mike decided to take some time on his own to explore the town.  Angie and I found the trailhead for the #2 coastal route, and pressed on to the next town of Vernazza.

The #2 coastal route is open all the way from Corniglia to Vernazza.  This is a bit more of a moderate route that can be done in sneakers but there are still plenty of steep steps.  The views and vistas of the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea are just breath taking.

An hour and a half later we came into sight of the tiny jewel of a town, Vernazza. 

Vernazza is a bit smaller than Manarola with a smaller harbor too, but it is every inch as charming if not more. 

 By this time Angie and I were ready for a proper late afternoon lunch, but the Ristorante Castello that overlooks the sea at the tower in Vernazza was still closed for renovation (scheduled to reopen July 1).  Luckily the outstanding Ristorante Belforte was open and it has tremendous panoramas over the sea.  We were fortunate to get a table on the small “front porch” balcony.  Though upscale and a bit pricey, their food and service were excellent. 

Like so many restaurants in the Cinque Terre, Belforte specializes in seafood.  We both ordered Gilt-head sea bream cooked with tomatoes, potatoes, and olives and it was just awesome, however, I could not resist a picture of one of the restaurant’s other specialties!

After lunch we took the train two towns south back to our hotel in Manarola.  The trains are the best connector between the five villages, but during the summer they often run behind schedule and are impossibly crowded during daytime.  Nonetheless, Tuesday we took the train north for a beach day at the northern most town, Monterosso.  

Monterosso was the fourth, and the biggest of the towns we visited.  Although Manarola and Vernazza have water access, Monterosso is the only town that has a real beach.  This means it is the most crowded with tourists, and unfortunately the town has been forced to trade off some of its authentic Italian fishing village charm to provide resources and infrastructure for all of them.  Although I would not choose to stay to Monterosso, it is fun to go for a day and take a relaxing swim in the Mighty Med.  Speaking of which, the allure of the Cinque Terre really resonated with Angie and I, and we plan to go back later in the year when the heat and the crowds subside. 

Michael, Angie and I returned home from Cinque Terre Tuesday evening 6/25.  Friday the 28th was Mike's last full day with us, and it was Alex's first day with us.  We celebrated our first time together in over 7 months with a wonderful dinner at Ristoro l'Antica in Tavarnelle.